An exploration of punk, glamrock and the tension between rawness and refinement
The Spring Summer 2012 collection, titled Slippery When Wet, marked a defining moment within JANBOELO. Rooted in the late 1970s, the collection draws from the rise and fall of punk and glamrock, translating their energy into garments that balance rawness with control.
Rather than referencing these movements literally, the collection approaches them through material and construction — exploring how attitude can be embedded into form, texture and detail.
The collection is shaped by the visual and cultural language of bands such as The Sex Pistols, The Ramones and Siouxsie and the Banshees. Their influence is not only visible in the use of leather and hardware, but in the overall tension within the pieces — a balance between rebellion and structure.
Patti Smith forms another important reference point. Her androgynous presence is reflected in loosely shaped blouses with refined detailing. These pieces introduce a different layer within the collection, where strength is expressed through restraint rather than excess.
Leather plays a central role throughout the collection. Specially treated lamb leather is used for a series of jackets, including double-breasted designs in red and black, finished with a platinum spray. Other pieces include a metallised bronze perfecto jacket and a cropped black lamb leather jacket treated with epoxy, giving it a distinct surface and depth.
The development of these pieces was closely tied to the material itself. A visit to a leather supplier in Italy, where the material undergoes its final forty stages of processing, provided direct insight into the possibilities of treatment and finish.
Alongside leather, silk is introduced to create contrast. Blouses and evening dresses made from silk charmeuse stretch and organza bring a sense of lightness and movement, balancing the heavier, more structured elements of the collection.
One of the defining pieces within the collection is a short jacket with a large collar, hand-embroidered with ostrich feathers. At first glance, the volume gives the jacket a heavy and almost exaggerated appearance. However, when worn, the movement of the feathers reveals a different quality — lighter, more refined, almost fluid.
Another key element is found in the use of leather evening dresses. The leather is split to an extremely fine thickness, allowing it to behave almost like fabric. Cut from single pieces with minimal seams, the dresses maintain a sense of movement while retaining their structure.
For both men and women, denim appears in laminated finishes, including gold, silver and high-gloss red. These pieces add a more direct reference to the boldness of glamrock, without losing control over form and proportion.
The collection was presented at Amsterdam Fashion Week, marking the first time JANBOELO was shown on this stage. The presentation introduced the work to a wider audience and became a key moment in the development of the label.
It was not only a presentation of garments, but a shift in context — from studio-based work to a broader, public setting.
Looking back, Slippery When Wet represents more than a single collection. It marks a moment where the work became visible, and where the relationship between making and presenting began to change.
