On identity, contrast and the courage to be seen.
Fall Winter 2011–2012 marks the first collection developed under the JANBOELO label. Presented during Boutiq in Amsterdam, it introduced the work in a new context — no longer as a graduation project, but as part of an independent trajectory.
While building on the foundation of earlier work, this collection shifts towards a clearer thematic direction: identity, and the tension between what is shown and what remains hidden.
“There is a crack in everything. That’s how the light gets in.” – Leonard Cohen
This collection explores the search for identity through contrast — between strength and vulnerability, visibility and concealment. It is not about a fixed definition of self, but about the process of becoming.
Two narratives form the conceptual backbone of the collection: the life of artist Ans Markus and the fictional story of Sweeney Todd. Both represent individuals shaped by their past, yet defined by the moment they reclaim their identity.
These references are not translated literally, but serve as underlying structures — informing the atmosphere, the silhouettes and the emotional tension within the garments.
As in earlier work, craftsmanship plays a central role. The collection combines strong materials such as leather with more refined elements, creating a layered and tactile quality throughout.
Details are carefully constructed and often hand-applied — from studs and metal sequins to antique haute couture beads sourced in Paris. These elements add depth without becoming decorative in a conventional sense.
Stretch fabrics and technical adjustments are integrated to support movement and comfort, allowing garments to function beyond their visual impact.
The women’s silhouettes evolve throughout the collection, gradually becoming more defined and controlled. Pencil skirts are constructed with built-in corsetry to maintain their shape, while leather trousers are adapted with stretch to allow freedom of movement.
This creates a balance between restriction and autonomy — garments that frame the body, yet allow the wearer to move on her own terms.
For the men’s collection, a different approach is taken. The silhouette is intentionally nonchalant: wider on top, with hand-knitted pieces and layered elements, combined with more fitted trousers. It reflects a quiet awareness — a way of dressing that is considered, without demanding attention.
The collection was presented during Boutiq in Amsterdam, alongside two other designers. This setting introduced the work within a shared context, marking the first step into the Dutch fashion landscape as an independent label.
It was a moment of transition — from working in isolation towards positioning the work within a broader field.
Looking back, Fall Winter 2011–2012 establishes themes that would continue to return: identity, contrast and the relationship between structure and freedom.
It is a collection about becoming — about defining a position, while still leaving space for change.
