Notes from time spent in and around Tanjung Puting National Park, slow travelling by klotok through the rainforest of Indonesian Borneo.
Why staying longer matters, and what reveals itself when you move beyond the main stops.
Travelling through Tanjung Puting by klotok sets a slow and steady rhythm. Days unfold on the river, moving between feeding platforms and long stretches of forest where very little seems to happen at first. Orangutans are often the main reason to come here, but they are only part of what defines the experience.
Four days on the river is enough to realise that this landscape cannot be reduced to a sequence of stops.
Spending extended time on the boat also changes conversations. Sitting with a guide day after day, stories surface naturally. Not only about wildlife, but about the wider region — about traditional Dayak villages deep in the forest, places only reachable on foot, far from the routes most visitors follow. About birdlife, forest paths and a way of life shaped by the river and the land.
It becomes clear that this part of Indonesian Borneo offers far more than a single focus on orangutans allows.
After the klotok journey, there was time left before heading to the airport. Instead of waiting, we walked through Kumai — a town often passed through without much attention. Markets, streets, everyday routines. Nothing remarkable in itself, but grounding.
Small pauses like this change how a journey settles.
One moment stood apart from the main route. Leaving the larger boats behind, we took a canoe into narrow waterways — quiet, enclosed, almost completely still. The forest closed in. Sound shifted. Movement slowed further. Compared to the river, which can feel busy despite its scale, this felt like stepping fully into the interior. It was here that the sense of being deep inside the rainforest truly arrived.
Looking back, staying longer would not have meant adding more highlights. It would have meant shifting attention — away from fixed routes and known encounters, toward culture, forest life and the spaces in between. Indonesian Borneo invites that kind of approach, if you allow time for it.
This journey was arranged with BeBorneo Tours, whose local knowledge shaped much of what unfolded along the way.
Along the river
Long days on the water shaped the rhythm of travel and the hours in between. A playlist that accompanied me during those moments on the river sits alongside this note: Borneo Soundscapes on Spotify.