Discovering the Enchanting Banda Islands: A Journey Through Indonesia’s Hidden Gem
The Banda Islands, an unspoiled treasure in Indonesia’s Maluku Province, are a dream destination for travellers seeking a unique blend of natural beauty, rich history, and authentic experiences. Known as the original Spice Islands, this small archipelago was once the world’s only source of nutmeg, making it the focal point of intense colonial rivalry. In April 2024, I embarked on a journey to explore these magical islands, and what I found was a paradise that surpassed every expectation.
The Journey Begins: From Ambon to Banda Neira
Our adventure started in Tulehu, a bustling port on the island of Ambon, where we boarded a public ferry for the five-hour voyage to Banda Neira, the central island of the Banda group. The journey itself was an experience to remember. As we cruised through the cerulean waters of the Banda Sea, we were greeted by stunning views of volcanic peaks rising dramatically from the ocean. The sense of anticipation grew with each passing mile, and by the time we reached the shores of Banda Neira, I was utterly captivated.
A Warm Welcome at Our Banda Neira Stay
We were welcomed to Banda Neira with open arms at our accommodation, Cilu Bintang Estate. The house, built in a colonial style, exuded warmth and history, perfectly complementing the ambience of the islands. From the terrace, we enjoyed breathtaking views of the iconic Gunung Api volcano, whose silhouette dominates the skyline.
The rooms were simple yet comfortable, with large windows that let in the cool sea breeze. The staff, always ready with a smile, made us feel right at home, offering insider tips on how to make the most of our stay.
Exploring Banda Neira: History and Culture
Banda Neira is a small island, but it is rich in history and culture. Our first stop was the Benteng Belgica, an imposing 17th-century Dutch fortress that stands as a reminder of the islands’ turbulent colonial past. As we wandered through the fort’s stone corridors, the guide painted vivid stories of the spice trade, battles, and the role the Banda Islands played in shaping global history.
We also visited a local nutmeg plantation, where we witnessed the traditional process of harvesting and drying nutmeg. The scent of freshly harvested spices filled the air, and it was fascinating to learn about the significance of these tiny islands in the world economy centuries ago.
The Call of the Sea: Snorkelling and Diving in Banda
The Banda Islands are renowned for their pristine coral reefs and abundant marine life, making them a haven for snorkelling and diving enthusiasts. One of the highlights of our trip was exploring the vibrant underwater world around Banda Neira and the neighbouring islands.
Equipped with snorkelling gear, we ventured to sites like Pulau Hatta and Pulau Ai, where the coral gardens are really amazing. The water was so clear that it felt like we were swimming in a giant aquarium, surrounded by schools of colourful fish and sea turtles. Unfortunately, we did not see a reef shark, which are also common.
Experiencing Local Life: Markets and Flavours
One of the joys of visiting the Banda Islands is immersing yourself in local life. The island’s main market is a vibrant hub where locals gather to sell fresh produce, spices, and handcrafted items. Walking through the bustling stalls, I couldn’t resist purchasing some nutmeg and mace to take home, knowing they would carry the memories of this trip with them.
The local cuisine was another highlight of our stay. From freshly grilled fish seasoned with local spices to the delicious ikan kuah kuning, a fragrant yellow fish curry, every meal was a celebration of Banda’s culinary heritage. For dessert, we enjoyed bika Ambon, a sweet, spongy cake flavoured with coconut and pandan.
Discovering Hidden Gems: Pulau Run and Pulau Rozengain
Beyond Banda Neira, the surrounding islands offer plenty of opportunities for exploration. One of my favourite day trips was to Pulau Run, a tiny island with a big history. This was the island traded by the British to the Dutch in exchange for Manhattan during the Treaty of Breda in 1667. Standing on its pristine shores, it was surreal to think about the historical significance of this quiet, unassuming place.
We also visited Pulau Rozengain, where we explored secluded beaches and snorkelled in crystal-clear waters. The laid-back vibe of these islands, combined with their stunning natural beauty, made them feel like a slice of paradise.
Captivated by the Banda Islands’ Timeless Beauty
What struck me most about the Banda Islands was their timeless beauty and the genuine warmth of their people. The lack of mass tourism means that the islands retain their authenticity, offering a rare glimpse into a way of life that remains untouched by modernity. Every moment felt like a gift, from watching the sun set over the harbour to chatting with locals about their lives on the islands.
Practical Tips for Visiting the Banda Islands
If you’re planning your own journey to the Banda Islands, here are a few tips to keep in mind:
Getting there: The islands are accessible by ferry from Tulehu Port on Ambon Island or via small planes, though schedules can be unpredictable. Plan for some flexibility in your itinerary.
Best time to visit: April to November is ideal, as the weather is dry and the seas are calm, making it easier to explore the islands.
Packing essentials: Bring water-proof sunscreen, a good pair of walking shoes for hikes, and your own snorkelling gear if you plan to spend a lot of time in the water.
Music: If, like me, you are a huge music fanatic, it may help to bring a small music box or headphones. I also wrote an article about the music I listened to while visiting the Banda Islands, you can read it here.
Why the Banda Islands Deserve a Place on Your Bucket List
The Banda Islands are more than just a destination; they are an experience that stays with you long after you leave. From the stunning natural beauty and rich history to the vibrant marine life and warm hospitality, every aspect of these islands is enchanting. If you’re looking for an adventure off the beaten path, the Banda Islands offer an unforgettable journey into the heart of Indonesia’s past and present.
